![]() Little back ground - if you look at Alessandro's freescan logs some of the values go loopy every so and often. ![]() Does anyone know if there is more than one temperature sensor? I know there is one under the manifold, but is there one up front at the radiator? The only other thing I have to check would be the relay in the boot that controls the low coolant light.īut I do have a question. So i am guessing the thermostat is staying open and triggering the light. It never has gone past 90 and I have never had any overflow or leakage of antifreeze, wven when idling for a long time with the a/c on or off. Like within 3-5 minutes it will be at 80. So, I have plenty of fluid, the fans are ok (I am not getting a check engine light) and it isn't showing hot on the gauge (I also checked with freescan and it shows the same as the gauge) It only comes on for a short period and usually goes off after some driving. I disconnected the sender leads (from chargecooler and engine expansion tanks) and grounded them to see if either of those were causing the light. I checked my fluid levels (expansion tanks (chargecooler and engine) and overflow tank. Mine first came on while idling in traffic for a long time (45 min) The temp gauge indicated it wasn't overheating, it was at max 90 and I could hear the fans come on and watch the temp fall etc. It will also come on WITH the check engine light if there is a fan problem. ![]() The coolant light will come on for low fluid level or high temp. I am having the same problem.Here is what I have found. Forgive my simplistic answer as I was trying to understand the question/problem and answered in what I thought would help the most. Thanks for that clarification, I wasn't aware this was a two function light. I would not drive the car until you can be sure it's not running hot.Ĭarl, you are correct, usually upon cooldown it will draw from the expansion tank, but if there is air in the system and the system isn't topped up correctly it can draw from this, at least most of the other cars I've worked on operate in this fashion. You need to check the coolant temp in some way such as an infrared temp gun and verify that the temp gauge is working properly to rule out an actual overheating issue. I've never seen one that didn't fluctuate somewhat and activate the cooling fans at some point. Sounds to me like he may have a cooling problem since he states that the gauge always stays at 80 degrees. The tell tale is dual function and not only warns of low coolant but also high coolant temps. I wouldn't reccommend that with any newer engine, as everything made since the mid-90's seems to be hyper sensitive to overheating.This is not correct. Incredibly, I didn't warp the heads or blow a HG in either case. Pulled over and found that my coolant return hose from the heater core had split, and I lost all the coolant.Īfter replacing the line and refilling the coolant, I went through some fun "burping" the system over the next couple weeks, including getting a huge air bubble stuck at my t-stat, causing another near-flatline of my temperature gauge. ![]() Looking out the front, there was no indication of what was happening, and by the time I noticed it, almost all the coolant had leaked/vaporized, so there was very little (white) smoke coming out the rear. I was driving to work, looked down because my heater was going cold, and noticed the temp gauge almost completely flatlined. In fact, they both happened to the same car of mine. Although if the temperature light is located on the radiator, a major hose failure could result in a low temp condition, but the huge amounts of steam, and trail of water behind you would be a good sign.Actually, either of the conditions I described can cause an under temperature reading. There is a seperate red light indicating the engine is overheating. THe blue light would only come back on when driving if the thermostat was stuck open, meaning the engine is too cold.
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